I was wondering about carving tools for faux bone. I just carved a Maori influenced koru (a circle that looks sort of like a closed fern frond). I used my dremel tool with different burs and abrasives, but I was wondering if there are any good carving tools that you’d recommend. I haven’t taken a picture of the piece yet, when its in final form (all sanded etc). I’ll take a picture and post it.
Hi – I have just bought and now made a piece using 1/8″ faux bone – I made two circular clasps for my necklace – very pleased with it – I cut the circels using a jewellery saw 003 blade and scribed wtih a darning needle sanded by hand and rotorary tool. I tried to cut a bangle out of a much thicker piece 1/2″ but the blade keeps snapping – I am going to try now with a hack saw or fret saw. – PS how do I attach a photo ??
What do you use to color faux bone? I’ve tried shoe polish, oil pencils, lead pencils but I can’t get the color to stick. Any suggestions for giving it a more aged look?
Thanks.
You can use shoe polish, not shoe cream, and leave it on for an hour or longer. If you have rubbed it off right away, it will not impart much color at all. Try leaving it for an hour or longer. There have been some students that have used acrylic paints with success as well as Prisma Color colored pencils. Please let me know if these suggestions work for you. If not, I will research other options and let you know.
Hi, concerning applying color to Faux Bone, I’ve used acrylic paints, sharpie permanent markers, shoe polish, watercolor pencils, all with success. Rember you will mostly be staining the surface with these.
As far as having the color stay on, you will need apply it on a relatively rough (sanded, scratched, carved) surface otherwise you will barely stain a totally smooth surface and it will rub off pretty easily.
Another thing that I’ve done that works really well with both color pencils and permanent markers is to apply the color then heat the surface either in a toaster oven (don’t go over 110-130°C). This seems to “fix” the color more permanently on the surface. It works even on a smooth surface and in particular with permanent markers or alcohol based paints. You can then lightly hand polish it with a soft cloth for a nice buffed up shine. It will only come off if you sand it. Don’t forget one of the main things about getting color to stick is a surface that is even slightly rough so the color enters those tiny crevices, then the heat source over it.
Angela
I have your new DVD and love it. My goal is to create a small sphere 3/4″ in diameter. I was wondering the best way to achieve that? Should I heat it and push it into a round mold for each half of the sphere? Or should I laminate 1/2″ sheet to 1/4″ sheet and carve it? Will the layered seams show if I do that?
Thank you so much for the compliment on the DVD! Since the material is almost impervious, laminating using a chemical bond is not advisable since it is not assured to last. The only sure-fire way to assure a permanent hold is by using mechanical fasteners, such as microfasteners. You may ‘hide’ the bold heads by countersinking. This may just add another dimension to your design.
Hi Robert,
I LOVE your work! On one of the pieces, it looks like metal stamps were used to write words on the Faux Bone. Do you tap it like you would copper? Thanks.
Thank you for your kind words. I do use metal stamps on Faux Bone. You would need to make the hammer strike a bit more forceful than when stamping on copper in order to make a lasting impression.
I am having problems achieving a deep etch into the faux bone with steel hand-stamping tools. I was wondering if the stamp could be heated and then stamped into the faux bone? Or, should I heat the faux bone and then press the cold stamp into it until the bone cools off? Any suggestions
would be appreciated.
Don’t be afraid to hit the stamps hard, as the Faux Bone can absorb the blow. If you are still having problems, you can definately spot heat the Faux Bone, imbed the desired stamp and hold it there until the material cools down. You will find if you wish to do a series of stampings, you may try heating the stamp and applying it. If you are planning on doing a single stamp, heating the material will work; if you heat the material again to apply an additional stamp the first impression will disappear since the Faux Bone returns to its original shape again and again after heating. Let me know how you make out!
January 13, 2008 at 4:57 pm
I was wondering about carving tools for faux bone. I just carved a Maori influenced koru (a circle that looks sort of like a closed fern frond). I used my dremel tool with different burs and abrasives, but I was wondering if there are any good carving tools that you’d recommend. I haven’t taken a picture of the piece yet, when its in final form (all sanded etc). I’ll take a picture and post it.
January 13, 2008 at 4:58 pm
Hi – I have just bought and now made a piece using 1/8″ faux bone – I made two circular clasps for my necklace – very pleased with it – I cut the circels using a jewellery saw 003 blade and scribed wtih a darning needle sanded by hand and rotorary tool. I tried to cut a bangle out of a much thicker piece 1/2″ but the blade keeps snapping – I am going to try now with a hack saw or fret saw. – PS how do I attach a photo ??
January 13, 2008 at 4:59 pm
I will get the answer to that question and let you know. Thanks!
January 13, 2008 at 5:01 pm
I think she wants to attach a photo to this comment. How is that done?
February 14, 2008 at 11:52 pm
What do you use to color faux bone? I’ve tried shoe polish, oil pencils, lead pencils but I can’t get the color to stick. Any suggestions for giving it a more aged look?
Thanks.
February 14, 2008 at 11:59 pm
You can use shoe polish, not shoe cream, and leave it on for an hour or longer. If you have rubbed it off right away, it will not impart much color at all. Try leaving it for an hour or longer. There have been some students that have used acrylic paints with success as well as Prisma Color colored pencils. Please let me know if these suggestions work for you. If not, I will research other options and let you know.
March 31, 2008 at 12:12 pm
Hi, concerning applying color to Faux Bone, I’ve used acrylic paints, sharpie permanent markers, shoe polish, watercolor pencils, all with success. Rember you will mostly be staining the surface with these.
As far as having the color stay on, you will need apply it on a relatively rough (sanded, scratched, carved) surface otherwise you will barely stain a totally smooth surface and it will rub off pretty easily.
Another thing that I’ve done that works really well with both color pencils and permanent markers is to apply the color then heat the surface either in a toaster oven (don’t go over 110-130°C). This seems to “fix” the color more permanently on the surface. It works even on a smooth surface and in particular with permanent markers or alcohol based paints. You can then lightly hand polish it with a soft cloth for a nice buffed up shine. It will only come off if you sand it. Don’t forget one of the main things about getting color to stick is a surface that is even slightly rough so the color enters those tiny crevices, then the heat source over it.
Angela
February 2, 2009 at 6:48 pm
do you have a dvd on the techniques for working with faux bone
February 3, 2009 at 7:34 pm
We are hoping a tutorial will be available in March that will show different techniques. Keep checking our blog or website for news!
March 3, 2009 at 6:25 pm
How & where can I purchase faux bone? What forms does it come in? cost?
March 4, 2009 at 12:47 am
You can see Faux Bone, including pricing and sizes plus complimentary tools and accessories by visiting http://www.fauxbone.com
June 9, 2009 at 6:39 pm
Can fauxbone be heated and then used in a push mold? If so what are the does and don’ts of heating this product.
June 15, 2009 at 10:14 pm
Hi There,
I have your new DVD and love it. My goal is to create a small sphere 3/4″ in diameter. I was wondering the best way to achieve that? Should I heat it and push it into a round mold for each half of the sphere? Or should I laminate 1/2″ sheet to 1/4″ sheet and carve it? Will the layered seams show if I do that?
Thank you so much for the compliment on the DVD! Since the material is almost impervious, laminating using a chemical bond is not advisable since it is not assured to last. The only sure-fire way to assure a permanent hold is by using mechanical fasteners, such as microfasteners. You may ‘hide’ the bold heads by countersinking. This may just add another dimension to your design.
October 27, 2009 at 8:30 pm
Hi Robert,
I LOVE your work! On one of the pieces, it looks like metal stamps were used to write words on the Faux Bone. Do you tap it like you would copper? Thanks.
October 28, 2009 at 12:25 am
Thank you for your kind words. I do use metal stamps on Faux Bone. You would need to make the hammer strike a bit more forceful than when stamping on copper in order to make a lasting impression.
November 9, 2009 at 8:50 pm
I am having problems achieving a deep etch into the faux bone with steel hand-stamping tools. I was wondering if the stamp could be heated and then stamped into the faux bone? Or, should I heat the faux bone and then press the cold stamp into it until the bone cools off? Any suggestions
would be appreciated.
Virginia
November 11, 2009 at 11:53 am
Don’t be afraid to hit the stamps hard, as the Faux Bone can absorb the blow. If you are still having problems, you can definately spot heat the Faux Bone, imbed the desired stamp and hold it there until the material cools down. You will find if you wish to do a series of stampings, you may try heating the stamp and applying it. If you are planning on doing a single stamp, heating the material will work; if you heat the material again to apply an additional stamp the first impression will disappear since the Faux Bone returns to its original shape again and again after heating. Let me know how you make out!